Chiang Mai, Thailand– December 20th, 2016 – January 5th, 2017

Thanks to a tip from our southern Myanmar friends from Scotland, we landed a gig in Chiang Mai housesitting for an ex-pat family that live just outside the city. Since we were arriving about a week before their vacation started, the family graciously invited us to stay in their guesthouse and enjoy the holiday season with them. Comprised of an American mom, Swiss dad (who happens to also be a mechanical engineer), two amazing bi-lingual kids, a golden retriever named Ginger, and two Thai cats named White Toes and Da Diaow (Thai for One Eye), the family welcomed us warmly and we instantly felt like part of the family. The house was also incredible – we had a full guest house to ourselves, the outside area was huge and comfortable, and there was a pool (which we never use, but still, it was there)!

Animal love!

We spent the days leading up to Christmas enjoying family life, relaxing, going on a hike, baking pies (to be fair, Andy was the only one who baked pies), exercising (also to be fair, I was the only one exercising), and frequenting the western style grocery store. On Christmas Eve, we went with the family to a Swiss restaurant, where we had Raclette (oh cheese, how I’ve missed you!). On Christmas morning, we were shocked to discover that the family had even given us stockings with little Thai foods and snacks to try – it was incredible! Although this was the first Christmas either of us had spent away from family and/or friends, being included in their Christmas festivities felt almost like being back at home. Since Christmas fell on a Sunday this year and most Thai people do not celebrate Christmas (although, strangely the malls still do), we ventured out on our rented motorbike to the Chiang Mai Sunday Market. Arriving early while the vendors were still setting up, we decided to first go see Wat Chedi Laung, a famous Buddhist temple in Chiang Mai’s old city. The manicured landscaping, beautiful buildings, and partially restored collapsed temple were very nice (although we were still pretty templed out from Bagan). With the market in full swing, we walked through the hundreds of handicraft and food vendors which spanned the entire width of the old city center. To say the market was massive would be an understatement. The highlight of the market was the most amazing chewy sweet potato balls – I will never be able to find or replicate the awesomeness... depressing. 

Ex-pat life in Chiang Mai. The top middle picture shows the Swiss Restaurant that was walking distance from the house.  

Temples and markets around Chiang Mai. In the bottom left is an extraordinarily creepy wax sculpture of a monk. 

Our stay in Chiang Mai could not have been better! Having not stayed in one place for longer than a week over the last six months, we were in serious need for a break (not to mention overdue for some animal therapy). On top of an excessive amount of R&R (I partook in almost 6 hours’ worth of massages in two weeks, costing less than $50 total), shopping, and quality time with the pets, we finally caught up on trip planning and blogging (although just barely, since I am writing this on the plane on our way to Phnom Penh). As part of our two weeks of massage mania, we stopped at a fish spa where little fish eat all the dead skin off your feet and legs. If you’ve ever gotten electric stem therapy, it felt a lot like that, but with the added benefit of having callus free feet when you are done. We also took a half day, 5-course Thai cooking class where we made and ate some of the best food we’ve had in Thailand so far (toot toot, our food was delicious!). Added bonus, was that the chef taught me how to substitute fish and oyster sauce/paste for ingredients that don’t make me want to hurl. Overall, Chiang Mai and the surrounding suburbs took us by surprise. The abundance of ex-pats, approximately one gigantic mall per city block, and easy public transit made us feel like we were in the Western world again (or at least Kuala Lumpur). The ex-pats that can find work seem to have it made – great weather, surrounding mountains, good health care, and best of all, you can live at a very high standard for pennies on the dollar.

Cooking class and fish spa.

On New Year’s Eve, we ventured out into the city for a few hours before returning to the house to countdown to 2017 with Ginger, White Toes, and Da Diaow. They were not great company since they slept right through our countdown, but it was better than driving our motorbike 20 minutes out of town in scary traffic after midnight. Additionally, we are old, midnight is super late, and partying by ourselves is a bit lonely (we miss our friends… sad). While in the city, we went to the night bazaar, listened to some terrible Thai bands (and one incredible one), found and ate more sweet potato balls, and lit off our first ever paper lantern (aka UFO).  

New Years Eve! The female drummer in the bottom left photo was incredible! 

Another highlight of our stay was completing the Somloeng Loop on our 100 cc motorbike. The 100 km (60 mi) loop winds through the beautiful countryside and mountains west of the city. Loaded down with two western sized people, our poor bike struggled to make it up the hills and alternatively the brakes struggled to slow down our inertia (nerd out moment) on the steep descents. The trip was not comfortable or fast, but we really enjoyed it. We stopped at a strawberry farm, bought strawberry wine, had a delicious Thai lunch in Somloeng, and overall, appreciated being outside of the hustle of the city. Since our time in Thailand up until this point had been spent in the south (which is very touristy), Hat Yai (which is a massive city), and Chiang Mai (which has easily accessible western conveniences), the Somloeng Loop was the first time we experienced smaller Thai villages and farms. It was nice to spend some time in a more authentic setting (or what we perceived as authentic anyway).

Around the Somloeng Loop.

The two weeks we spent in Chiang Mai went by so fast. Although excited to experience Cambodia, we were sullen to be leaving the comforts and ease of our house-sit home. We were also sad to be leaving the family and our new furry friends. Hopefully we will be able to swing a return visit in the coming years J.