After an awkward airport viewing of a Netflix sex scene, we
arrived in Lima. It had been an uneventful trip, especially since we decided to
catch the Airport Express bus to Miraflores (where the tourists go) rather than
fight the taxi’s for a reasonable fare (like last time). We wandered around
Miraflores for a solid 20 minutes before finally stumbling upon our unmarked
guest house. Our room at the guest house was literally about 8 square feet
larger than the size of the bed (clean though, so no complaints).
After an overpriced touristy breakfast at an adorable café,
we relaxed a bit before Andy ventured out to get a Peruvian SIM card for the
phone. It took a while, but he was eventually successful and came back just in
time to partake in a cardio ski workout (in preparation for our… spoiler alert…
Chilean ski-cation in August). No kidding the workout, combined with the
elevation, almost killed us. For the rest of the day, we mostly killed time
walking around and eating at a nearby Indian restaurant, while we waited in
anticipation for our friend Matt to arrive. We were pretty stoked to have a
friend join us for the next couple weeks. We visited Parque Kennedy, also known
as the cat park, where literally hundreds of stray cats have found a home
thanks to the cat food and adoption potential provided by a local non-profit.
We also walked along the water, enjoyed the sights and enviously watched the
paragliders and surfers in action. Matt arrived late in the evening, as
expected, and we promptly went to bed… to be fair I may have already been
sleeping.
Restaurants and Cat Parks! Not sure how we feel about the combo Starbucks and Chile's. |
The coastline of Lima including El Parque Del Amore or Love Park. |
We rose fairly early and made breakfast at the guest house
before making our way to a Lima walking tour of downtown. The tour met at a bar
where there was free beer tasting – a bit early for drinking if you ask me, but…
when in Lima. Thanks to the free status of the tour, it ended up being more of
a herd than a tour, but well organized nonetheless. We took a bus to downtown
Lima and visited a large number of parks, historic buildings, and plazas,
learning about the history along the way. We also stopped on several occasions
for food and drink tastings – coffee, a potato dish, and lots of different
types of pisco. About half way through the lengthy tour I started feeling a bit
peaked, but pushed through, hoping my growing stomach discomfort would subside.
It didn’t… but eventually the tour ended and we made our way back to
Miraflores. If it wasn’t for the friendly local that came to our rescue, we may
never have made the return bus trip thanks the confusing ticket turntable.
Downtown Lima Tour. |
While I laid in bed clutching my stomach (I blame the eggs from breakfast which came from a random corner store with a stack of room temperature eggs piled about waist high), Andy and Matt
ventured out again to visit the Miraflores area and coast. Later, we all
grabbed a quick meal before turning in for the night – it was going to be an
early morning. Since Matt had just over 2 weeks for the trip, we decided to use
Peru Hop for our bus travel from Lima to Lake Titicaca. Peru Hop is a tourist
bus company that drives a specific route and lets you hop on and off (hence the
name) at different stops along the way. In between major stops, they take side
trips to remarkable places en-route that you would normally pass over with a
local bus company. The first leg of the trip, from Lima to Paracas, started
before the sun the next morning.
Safely on the luxury bus, stomach ache in toe, we were on
our way. Before leaving the city, we stopped at Monumento al Soldado
Desconacido. Lima is remarkably clean and beautiful, but it wasn’t until we arrived
at the city overlook that we realized that the tourist areas of the city are surrounded
by shanty brick buildings housing impoverished people (almost 80% of the city consists
of these neighborhoods). There is massive class separation. While in Miraflores
we saw catered birthday parties for infants and 5-star restaurants which market
to the richest of the rich, yet the perspective from the overlook was quite
different. Surprisingly, some of the most desirable locations (in terms of
ocean and city views) are occupied by shanty towns. We learned from our bus guide,
that this is because Peru has a law that if you can prove that you or your
family have lived on a piece of land for over 20 years, the land is legally
yours.
Quick stop at the Monumento al Saldado Desconacido before heading towards Paracas. |
P.S. Lima is at sea level.
Wow. Here we see it again. The haves and have nots. Seems to be very little in the middle. Having a stomach ache and traveling is also no fun.
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