Taranaki Region, New Zealand North Island – April 5th – 7th, 2017

Did I mention Cyclone Debbie? Oh ya, in addition to ruining our plans in Taupo / Tongariro National Park, Debbie also attempted to sideline us on the way to the Taranaki region. We left Taupo in search of better weather (or if else fails at least lower elevations), but road flooding closed the only two routes to our backup destination (including the scenic route – not that you could see it through the rain anyway). To make matters worse, we did not figure this out until we had driven several hours in the direction of these closed roads. All said and done, the ~350 km, journey turned into over 500 km and 8-hours of driving! Alas, Debbie didn’t stop us, because we made it to Mt. Taranaki (a Mt. Fuji-esque mountain) just before nightfall. Perseverance wins.

Now on the west coast of the north island, we hurriedly explored the black sand beach and caves below our cliffside camp spot at Waverly beach before the tide came up and the sun went down. Now firmly off the beaten path, we were the only campervan in sight and had the entire incredible coastline to ourselves. Admittedly, the weather may have played a role in our solitude, since it was raining, only a few degrees above freezing, and the wind was threatening to blow over poor Freddy. When we woke the next morning, the weather was surprisingly improved and we made our way to an absolutely stunning hike through cow pastures which overlooked dramatic white coastal cliffs and returned along a pristine beach. The only downside to the hike was that Debbie had relieved herself all over our trail making it a sloppy muddy mess. Thanks to Debbie and the non-existent traction on my now very worn shoes, I ended the hike well fertilized in a mud + cow manure mix. Thanks again Debbie. You won that round. Debbie: 3, Dandy: 1 (participation point).

Curious cows en route and Waverly beach. 

White Cliffs walkway poop (I mean loop).

Before heading up to the eastern plateau of Mt. Taranaki to camp, we explored a black sand beach littered with, no not trash, this isn’t Asia, but arches and other fascinating rock formations. We stayed and explored as long as we could before we were forced to take off our shoes and wade through the cold incoming tide back to van. The drive up to the Mt. Taranaki Plateau and the view at the top did not disappoint. The single peak emerges 2518 m (8261 ft) above the plains and thanks to the national park regulations, a perfect boundary circumnavigates the base of the peak where the forest has been cleared for pastures. What we did not consider when deciding to camp at the highest drivable spot on the north island, was the temperature when the sun went down. It was the first night in Freddy that we truly froze. Once again, our solitude at the car park camp spot could easily be explained the weather (and our insanity).

Three Sisters black sand beach.

The next morning, we did a long hike in Taranaki National Park. A combination of stupidity and underestimating how long it would take to navigate the muddy trail left us about 4-hours in, drenched, cold, and starving (first rule of hiking – bring snacks)! Luckily, tourism came to the rescue in the form of a mountain café where we enjoyed cheese scones and tomato soup made from scratch while we waited out the rain. It was beyond glorious! The clouds even cleared on the way back giving us a spectacular view of the towering mountain. 

Mt. Taranaki and our mishmash loop hike: Enchanted track to Waingongoro track crossing the Waingongoro Gorge to Waingongoro Hut to Ridge Loop track to Dawson Falls to Kapuni Loop track to the Visitors Center and CAFE! to Wilkies Pools Loop track and finally back to the car park.

More pics from Mt. Taranaki hiking. The half mannequin man occupied a bunk in the visitor center historic hut exhibit.

Pics from around the region including the remains of a 1923 ship wreck.